Introducing The Exumas
Jan 4, 2024
This morning we woke up relaxed - we have finally made it to the Exumas! Jules and I took our time getting out of bed, casually drank our coffee and basked in the morning sun. We utilized the calm morning to fly our drone and get some cool shots. I followed that up with some yoga and jumped straight in the sparkling water when I was done. Slowly but surely it is getting warmer.
The water continually blows my mind
Next on the agenda was snorkeling. We lowered the skiff from the roof and loaded it up with gear and beer. My parents took us up to a site near Allen’s Cay that they had snorkeled before and we dropped anchor. This time I took my wetsuit, I all but froze at Gun Cay. Jules put hers on before we left the Altitude Adjustment so she got to watch as the three of us squirmed around in the tiny boat. There was another group snorkeling nearby and one person waiting on the boat. I bet we put on a funny show for him as we squeezed and jumped around to get situated in our suits.
Finally, we all got in the water. Unlike our last snorkel at Gun Cay, there were coral heads in every direction. Jules and I immediately started diving down and checking out the scenery. Unfortunately the sun disappeared right after we got in, but the colors were still gorgeous.
A thriving brain coral near Leaf Cay
Julia spotted a nurse shark tucked into the reef, it was about as long as I am tall. We all hovered overhead to check it out. The shark wasn’t concerned with me in the least. Some of the group near us heard Julia say there was a shark. I think it made them nervous because they left shortly after. In my experience nurse sharks are like the puppy dogs of the ocean so we weren’t too concerned.
Can you spot the shark?
The four of us remained brave and continued our snorkel, gawking at the reef as we went. It has been way too long since I was here. We perused slowly back and forth. Gray angelfish stood guard with sergeant majors, yellow barred grunts schooled along the edges of the reef, and I found multiple sea cucumbers cruising along the sand bed. Jules later described it as a fish city and I couldn’t agree more. The sun never did show itself while we were there. The gray sky actually rained on us for a short time while we swam, luckily we couldn’t get any more wet.
A beautiful example of a white branching coral
The cold slowly set in and, one by one, we made our way back to the skiff to get dried off. Too bad the rain got our towels wet. We stripped our wetsuits off and urged the sun to come back out. My mom pulled in the anchor for the skiff and we took off to our next destination.
The islands surrounding us are the only known habitat of the Bahamian rock iguana. Naturally Jules and I wanted to check them out. We cruised around to a small beach nearby on Leaf Cay. The lizards are so used to getting food from people that they come running when you show up; there was already a family feeding them when we arrived.
I think this one has a weight problem
They didn’t look like any iguanas we had seen before. Instead of green or orange, they were primarily gray with red spines running along their backs and tails. Their large beards and faces were splotched with red as well. The majority of the iguanas were fat, no doubt due to the free food and lack of predators. Julia found some cucumber on the beach left over from a previous group, we cleaned it off and gave it a shot.
I was able to coax a smaller one into trying it. He cautiously approached and then lunged to grab the small piece, of course he got my finger too. I’m glad he was a small one. A much larger one took an interest in Jules. She offered the cucumber and, after some careful consideration by the iguana, he turned his nose up at it. She then found a grape and offered it instead, he happily snagged it from her hand and munched on it. I guess with the abundance of food they can afford to be picky.
Feeding a tiny dinosaur
Our next stop was the large beach on the northern part of Highborne Cay. We stopped at the boat to restock beer and get a snack before cruising over to the sand. The second I jumped out of the skiff a staff member came to investigate. He informed us that beach access here is only available if you’re parked in the marina and checked in on the island first. So I hopped back in and we turned around.
Heading back toward the boat we noticed an empty beach nearby. My dad anchored the skiff in the sand and we clambered out. It was immaculate. There wasn’t a soul on the beach but us. Not only that but there was no trash visible either, and the rocky shore surrounding us sheltered the small cove from any waves. A few mangroves lingered on our side of the beach while a forest covered the distant corner. The water was clear enough that we could investigate the spider web of branches.
The explorative roots of a red mangrove
My mom made her way down the beach to the larger grouping of trees, Jules and I followed close behind her. The tangled mess of foliage creates a sanctuary for small fish and invertebrates. I spotted a tiny sand crab lurking in the seagrass, my mom discovered a pool filled with baby conchs, and thousands of juvenile fish darted around the roots in the shallow water. The sand gathered around the mangrove roots is so fine, it felt like velvet on our feet.
A conch residing in the mangroves
Jules and I walked through the water and up onto the iron shore. Generally the rocks are gnarly and jagged, definitely not somewhere to go barefoot. Where we ended up the razor-sharp edges only existed where the waves crashed, and the sheltered side was soft and smooth under our feet.
Iron shore is formed of limestone from ancient coral reefs. During the Pleistocene epoch, nearly three million years ago, the oceans were deeper due to a lack of ice at the poles. This gave coral more room to grow vertically in the water column. Later in the Pleistocene, about one-hundred thousand years ago, the earth experienced our most recent glaciation period and the seas gradually became more shallow as water froze. This left the tall coral heads exposed and they began to die off. Their hard exoskeletons deposited on top of one another and formed the limestone surfaces we have today.
When the ice melted and sea levels rose, around twelve thousand years ago, the crashing waves began eroding the softer lime from around the harder deposits. This creates pockets in the rocks with edges that are brutally sharp. It’s equally as rough on boats that venture too close, offering no forgiveness as it tears apart the vessel.
If you fall on this stuff it will mess you up!
Once Jules and I made it around the far side of the mangroves we decided to walk back through the water. We waded in across the seagrass bed, the bottom was incredibly mucky. Every step we took sunk us deeper into the silt, the grass tickling our legs as we trudged through. We decided to cut the walk short and headed towards higher ground near the mangroves. In fifty years, that whole area will probably be dry. If no one removes the mangroves they will continue to aggregate soils with their roots and add to the beach of the island. Like I mentioned before, they are some hard working trees.
Newly established mangrove propagules
After a few hours of exploring it was time to leave, Jules and I meandered back along the beach toward the skiff. My mom was in the water ahead of us and pointed out a mangrove tree crab. He clutched the branches just below the water line, no doubt hunting for his dinner. These crabs feed primarily on mangrove leaves but prefer small fish and invertebrates. We named him Constance the crab, I hope he’s prosperous for years to come.
He is right at home bobbing about on the roots
We packed ourselves and our stuff into the skiff and headed back to the boat for dinner. Later that night we broke out the charts and planned our next move, Shroud Cay here we come! It marks the very northern tip of the Exumas Land and Sea Park which was the first ever marine protected area and no-take zone.
Watching the sunset at Highborne
Jan 5, 2024
Around 6 a.m. this morning the boat started bouncing hard. The wind and waves changed direction and large swells started rolling into our anchorage. Sometimes a gentle rock from the waves is nice when trying to sleep, but this was far from gentle. The bow of the boat rode high up on the waves and crashed hard into the trough between them. It was both loud and uncomfortable. Immediately after we woke up, we were on the move. The ocean may be violent but we can travel along the Great Bahama Bank and the shallow water will be much calmer.
Unfortunately, our route to leave the anchorage left us vulnerable to the waves. We made a turn to exit and got pelted in the side again. The waves tilted the boat fifteen degrees in both directions. Our chairs slid across the deck and I think we all had flashbacks to the crossing from Florida. Luckily, the rocking was short-lived.
Smooth sailing on the bank
It only took about two hours to reach Shroud Cay. A blink in comparison to our last three travel days. We have now entered the Exumas Land and Sea Park. Although we can’t fish here, I’m looking forward to what we will see.
The sun played hide-and-seek well into the afternoon, causing some frustration surrounding our plans. No one could make a decision on what to do, finally we decided to try and snorkel again. My dad climbed to the roof to lower the skiff, plugged in the controller, and discovered our crane was broken again. The button that lowers the cable wouldn’t respond. Snorkeling was out the window, time for plan B. While my parents fiddled with the crane, Jules and I went paddle boarding. Sounds super fair doesn’t it.
The Altitude Adjustment in the distance
We paddled over to a cluster of tiny islands near the boat and brought the boards ashore. They were ringed entirely by the iron shore so we brought our shoes. One of the first things we noticed is that the plants on these islands are hardcore, some of their roots grow directly through the rocks!
Nature finds a way
The competition for suitable growing conditions is fierce. Palm trees are few and far between, instead most of the islands are covered in extremely dense foliage consisting of skinny trees and brush. Palms are still present, just not in the manicured California sense.
My brother from another mother
The pools of water in the iron shore were filled with snails and crabs. Tiny aquatic plants struggled to hold on as the surf crashed again and again. There were also spider webs scattered across the many nooks and crannies. Spiders are actually some of the first colonizers of new islands, so it makes sense to see them out here. Many species are able to float on air currents and cross large geographic barriers.
Some beautiful but harsh living conditions
We did our civic duty and disposed of a huge wad of discarded fishing line we found. It definitely didn’t belong in the park. And just in case anyone was curious, my parents were successful in fixing the crane… again.
Can you please move your yachts!
Jan 6, 2024
Normally in the morning, around seven, Jules and I awake to the sound of the generator. My dad starts it up to make coffee and charge the batteries. This morning we heard the generator try and fail. Fortunately, my dad has seen it all on this boat and quickly deduced that it needed a new water pump impeller; essentially the cooling system was broken. He pulled out one of many backup impellers and we had the new one installed pronto. Apparently this wasn’t the first time.
Burning off the morning clouds
Jules and I used the rest of the morning to do some yoga before taking a walk on a nearby beach with my parents. There is a saltwater river on Shroud Cay that my parents say is a “must see”. Unfortunately, it’s low tide this morning and even the skiff will get stuck in the shallow river so we have some time to kill.
Getting the skiff off of the roof was somewhat precarious as the waves rocked us side to side. I did my best to steady the miniature wrecking ball as the crane slowly brought it down to the water. Luckily, we managed to keep from breaking anything.
The beach was beautiful. It ran along the side of an estuary inlet with crystal clear water. The sand was fine and soft, countless minuscule shells cascaded in the waves, and mangroves harbored all manner of juvenile marine life.
Jules and I found an awesome baby shrimp hiding in some submerged plants hunting for its breakfast. I scared a sand crab out of his home by accident, it scuttled over to me and buried itself against my foot. At the end of the beach, mangroves stretched out of sight across the island’s interior, I’ve never seen so many at once.
These small snails litter the islands
Jules decided she wanted to swim back to the skiff. She waded through the mushy sediment out into the estuary channel and gracefully took the plunge. She was so eager to get in the gorgeous water that she went in with her hat and sunglasses.
After a while, hunger took over and we headed back to eat lunch and get ready to see the river. The four of us made quick work of some boudin, a type of sausage popular in Cajun cuisine. My parents stock up on some every time they drive to Florida. Scott, Louisiana is the boudin capital of the world, and trust me, its title is well-deserved.
After lunch, we piled back into the skiff and were off. We cruised to the northern end of Shroud Cay and into the saltwater river. Posted signs declare that idle speed is required to protect marine life. The water below us fluctuated depths constantly, creating amazing patterns of dark blue, teal, and turquoise. Mangroves lined nearly every inch of shoreline with their red, tangled roots reaching out into the channel. The river snaked through the island lazily with multiple tight curves and side channels.
We’ve never seen a saltwater river before
The flowing water causes shoaling throughout the river so my dad weaved us around the sandbars and kept us from getting stuck. Small sea turtles grazed on the plant life and a myriad of minnows glittered just under the water’s surface.
Eventually, we made it through the island to the ocean side. The river cut directly through an incredible beach and opened into a massive bay. I sorely needed someone to pick my jaw up from the floor. We parked the skiff and started walking the beach.
The picture-perfect scene felt like it was straight out of a movie. My parents led Jules and I around to a trail and we all made our way up the small hill. Apparently in the 1980’s the DEA used the spot to spy on Pablo Escobar’s activities at Norman’s Cay to the north. We used it to take pictures.
The DEA had a pretty killer spot
We climbed back down to the beach and my parents and Jules relaxed in the sand, but I wasn’t done exploring. A sandbar wraps across the river’s mouth and connects the two sides of the island. I decided to try and walk along it to the opposite side. It was a trek. Initially it was knee deep, but gradually the water rose to my waist, and then to my belly button. I thought I may have to swim the remaining distance but I pressed on.
I was on a mission
Right around the halfway point the waves crashing on the bar intensified and I fought to keep my footing, but I wasn’t deterred. Eventually, the water shallowed and I arrived on the opposite beach. I had it completely to myself.
I took my time walking from one end to the other. The beach backed up to the exposed iron shore and then upward into dense jungle. Unlike the gnarly, jagged shore eroded by the ocean, the areas that only experience wind erosion are soft and smooth. The sand gets blown across it and creates some beautiful patterns that resemble the topography lines on a map.
The smooth surface also created the perfect spot for curly-tailed lizards to sun themselves; dozens of them scattered as I walked by. One brave individual held his ground. I squatted down to observe him and he surprised me by approaching my hand. Unlike the iguanas we fed on Leaf Cay the curly tailed lizards are tiny, only a few inches long at most. I sat and watched him for a few minutes and he worked up the courage to investigate. I laid my hand down near him and he licked my finger in hopes of food.
These guys are prolific down here
After making friends, I decided to hike up the hill and was rewarded with another great view. On one side, the river carved a bright blue line through the mangrove forest, on the other beautiful waves swelled and crashed in the bay. I soaked in the sights for as long as possible before heading back across. This time, instead of walking a quarter mile of sandbar, I decided to swim across the thirty-foot gap in the river. I made great time.
We departed the beach just in time, two skiffs full of people took our spot as we left. On the way back, we ventured up one of the river forks. Turtles were everywhere; Julia counted a total of sixteen for the day! Again, I was in danger of catching bugs because my mouth was hanging open. This is one of the coolest ecosystems I have ever seen.
A gorgeous afterglow to end a killer day
Jan 7, 2024
When we woke up there wasn’t a cloud in the sky. The wind was predicted to switch directions from north to south throughout the day so we hauled the anchor and moved to a more protected spot, snuggling up closer to the shoreline at Shroud Cay. The island will act as a natural breakwater for the incoming waves.
Once we parked it got hot fast! I felt like I was doing yoga in a sauna. Time for the beach. We inflated our floaties and stacked them on top of the paddleboards. Then we strapped the boards to the back of the skiff and towed the whole monstrosity over to another river inlet further south.
Building the leaning tower of toys
When we arrived, the beach was empty. I’m not sure how we keep getting lucky like this but I’m not complaining. Only yesterday this beach was full of people when we passed by. We wasted no time getting in the water. I untied our tower of floaties and began the difficult task of lounging, my parents jumped on the paddleboards and took off down the inlet.
It’s a tough life sometimes
Meanwhile Julia broke out the metal detector. We bought a cheap one for the trip and honestly kept forgetting to use it. I’m not entirely convinced that it’ll find anything but might as well give it a shot. She cruised the beach with it and found all manner of false positives. Eventually, Jules dialed in her method and managed to uncover a long lost can. I think we would rather have a pirate doubloon but at least we know that it works.
Believe it or not this is a can
When my parents returned, I relinquished my throne and Jules and I happily took the paddleboards. Shortly after we left, a finger split off from the main body of the river and we decided to explore it. Immediately there were fish scrambling to hide from us. Juvenile mangrove snappers were getting bullied by sergeant majors half their size. Sergeant majors are black, yellow, and white striped fish with a Napoleon complex, I’ve even had them peck at my mask when I dive.
The inlet was narrow to start and got skinnier the deeper we went. Mangroves lined both sides and the water slowly shallowed beneath us. Eventually, the reaching roots of the trees blocked the channel, beyond was a forest of mangroves stretching for miles - no way we were getting through that. Now we had to figure out how to get out. Turning a nine-foot board around in the narrow channel was like performing a twenty point turn with a car.
Paddle boarding up the river inlet
The main body of the river was much deeper and wider than the finger. The current creates sandbars and deep pools just like a normal river, but here the water is gin-clear. The varying depths create a beautiful gradient of colors, from white sand near the surface to dark blues in the eddies. After a few minutes, the river made a sharp turn against a rocky wall and got much deeper. The structure of the underwater rock provides hiding places for all types of fish. We saw adult mangrove snapper, a huge barracuda, and Jules even saw a juvenile french angelfish.
We eventually turned around and headed back to the beach, the wind and current fought us the whole way. Going was the easy part, coming back we got a workout. Unsurprisingly, my parents were right where we left them. We couldn’t have asked for a better day in the sun. I put four layers of sunscreen on my neck today and still got burnt.
Our private beach for the day
As the day crept towards sunset, we piled the toys back onto the boards and made our way to the boat. Julia later went to hang her wet clothes on the railing outside and was greeted by a nurse shark. It was laying on the bottom right under the boat. Some sharks will congregate under boats to target small fish that are attracted to food scraps.
Here for the fish, not for us
After dark, my dad went outside and saw a dark spot moving in the water. He grabbed a flashlight and revealed a huge turtle grazing along the bottom. It was too dark to identify what kind, but hopefully we will see him again tomorrow.
Jan 8, 2024
Being on the boat has changed my sleep schedule tremendously. Usually we are all in bed by 8:30 p.m.; I probably sound like an eighty-year old man. Next I’m going to start calling dinner, supper and eating at early-bird specials. There just isn’t much entertainment after dark down here. Thanks to StarLink, we have wifi so movies are an option, but we’re all too tired by the end of the day to watch one. The sun really takes it out of you, it’s like an inverse solar charger.
Unfortunately, the sun barely showed itself today. Jules and I woke up super early and were fortunate enough to catch a glimpse before it disappeared behind the clouds. The sky remained a dark gray monotone color all day.
Please come back soon
The winds are supposed to blow in from the east and be consistently over twenty knots for the next two days; that’s the strongest we’ve seen since Hurricane Harbor. Sounds like we may be confined to the boat once again.
Time to break out another puzzle
The weather prediction has filled up the anchorage around us. We are in a well-protected spot next to Shroud Cay and plenty of boaters have joined us. Surprisingly, a large number of them are rentals. Apparently it’s common to see rental boats at the northern end of the Exumas. The majority of them have been sailing catamarans which seem to be popular right now and have plenty of room for three or four like-minded couples to split the cost.
They run around ten to twenty thousand a week depending on which boat and the time of year, but there seems to be plenty of them despite the large price tag. They all seem to be in a hurry too, squeezing in as many sights as their deadline allows. I’m thrilled that we have the option to take our time. While we wait for the beautiful weather to come back they’re rushing around in the wind, keen to get their money’s worth.
We were the only trawler in sight
Of course my dad found himself another project. Our skiff crane was beginning to rust along the hydraulic arm. Fearing it may need replacing if not taken care of soon, he went to work. First running an extension cord to the roof, followed by a sander, white paint, and some elbow grease. He sanded the rust away to stop the corrosion and then painted the arm to prevent it from starting again. All of this was once again done on the roof in strong winds. By the time he was done, paint speckles covered his sunglasses but the hydraulic arm looked great.
One exciting thing did happen today, although not to us. Once all of the chores were complete, we decided to play some cards. In the middle of our game of hearts we noticed a skiff floating past the boat, unoccupied. Someone was about to be very upset, thats the eqivalent of losing your car out here. My dad ran to the pilothouse and honked the horn trying to get some attention on it.
Luckily another boat already had their skiff in the water and was able to go and rescue the drifter and return it. Our skiff was on the roof otherwise we would have chased after it ourselves. But imagine if that happened at night, those people would have never seen their skiff again. I don’t even want to think about how difficult it is to get a new one down here in the Exumas. The crazy part is that the people who nearly lost their fifteen thousand dollar skiff just tied it back off and went inside instead of picking it up and securing it. They’re just begging for a repeat if you ask me.