Central Exuma Highlights
Jan 14, 2024
This morning we said goodbye to Warderick Wells and departed our mooring ball. Fortunately, high tide happened to be around the same time. The channel that contains the moorings is narrow and full of boats so we need all of the extra water we can get. My dad gently eased us out right alongside the other boats. Too close for comfort is an understatement. We all waved at the people while trying to hide our nerves. Along the way the eagle rays swam under the boat but my dad was too focused to look. I’m just thankful I didn’t have to navigate the minefield.
Sharing breakfast with the sergeant majors
For the first time since Nassau we got the rods in the water today. Of course we didn’t fish inside the Land and Sea Park. We left Warderick Wells and headed into the Exuma Sound, the ocean couldn’t have been much calmer. The waves were predicted to be around one foot and this time they may have been even smaller. The park extends a few miles offshore and we traveled just outside of the boundary marked on our charts. We were well outside our normal one to three hundred foot fishing depth but who knows, we might get lucky.
I’m not convinced there are any fish out here
The lures went in and we turned the boat south along the park boundary. The morning sun beamed in through the windows and turned the pilothouse into a sauna. Jules took over as captain and my parents watched the rods. The plan is to fish south just beyond the boundary and then turn around and stay at Cambridge Cay.
At the southern corner of the park boundary we hooked a fish. The drag ripped out briefly and I bared down on the reel. We were still way offshore in a ton of water and our imaginations raced at what it could be. The fish fought hard for a short time before I got it turned around. Again it started flanking underneath the other lines but this time we avoided any mess. It came toward the surface and I glimpsed the bright yellow-green of a mahi mahi.
Contrary to the initial struggle, the fish was actually pretty small. I reeled it in close to the swim platform and my dad lunged with the gaff, the small fish wriggled around and dodged the attempts. In the excitement, I lifted the mahi too far out of the water and it managed to throw the hook.
Disappointed, but not discouraged, we got the lines back out. By this time we had passed the park boundary and were able to fish our normal depths. We trolled past the inlet to Cambridge Cay with nothing but dinner on our minds. Minute after minute passed with no action and I sat there kicking myself over the missed opportunity.
Scattered cays on the horizon
Finally another rod bent over and I jumped on to reel. I’m not trying to bring in every fish, I promise. I just happen to be in the right place at the right time and it’s difficult to swap during the fight. This fish was even smaller than the last, initially we thought it may have been bitten in half by a shark because wasn’t any resistance.
To our surprise it was a whole barracuda, just a really tiny one. After sending him back into the water we continued fishing but ended up empty handed. Unfortunately fresh fish isn’t on the menu. We turned around and headed back into the park to Cambridge Cay for the night. Again we managed to score a mooring ball.
The morning sun was roasting us while fishing and I was ready to cool off. I grabbed my bathing suit and jumped off the roof. When I surfaced the current was pulling me away fast and I had to swim hard to get back to the boat.
Overcoming my fear of heights
Once I was out, I became Casey the Bahama Barber and cleaned up my mom and Jules’s neckline. Not to toot my own horn but I think it actually looked pretty decent. They both wanted buzzed undercuts in hopes of staying a little cooler, and I cleaned up their necklines so hair wouldn’t get caught in their mask straps. Next my parents hopped in their lounge floaties and tied off to the back of the boat. Without their rope they would have been out to sea in minutes. We floated for a while behind the boat waiting for the current to ease up.
The snorkel we planned for today was to a set of islands known as Rocky Dundas. Supposedly it hides two caves that can only be explored at low tide. We left early to make sure we had time to locate the spot. We cruised across the deep channel south of the mooring with our eyes peeled. The islands in front of us jutted up out of the ocean, their flat rock walls reaching high into the air above our heads.
At high tide the overhang is submerged
There are two skiff moorings located just off the sharp wall that grant easy access to the caves. From the skiff, the shadowy wall made it difficult to see the entrances. We suited up and jumped in. From the water the caves were much more obvious. Initially, it was just a looming dark mouth on the side of the island, but after my eyes adjusted I was able to see the dim interior. The water inside was very shallow and we stood up to look around.
Massive stalactites dripped water all around us, some reaching completely from floor to ceiling. They are primarily made of calcium carbonate, however the exact composition of each one varies so they are all unique in color and shape. A small skylight with encroaching plants let in just enough light to see the brilliant colors and designs.
Awestruck by the beautiful interior
We ducked back into the water and swam a short distance over some beautiful coral to the other opening. The second cave was larger and had room to take off our fins and walk around. The walls inside were equally as impressive as the first, and another small natural skylight allowed light through.
Tiny pools in the rock remained from the tide and, after some careful examination, Jules and I located two tube anemones, a tiny red rock sea urchin, one lonely fish, two massive four-toothed nerites, and a few fuzzy chitin glued down tight. There were also coral and shell fossils embedded in the cave floor. The ecosystem contained within those walls was inimitable.
Jules was very excited
At the back of the cave was the most exclusive tiny beach I’ve ever seen, there was just enough room for one chair and a cooler. The caves also provided some great acoustics for my tone-deaf singing. Jules sounded alright, but I couldn’t carry a tune if it was in my backpack. As we made our way back out to see the reef outside, two skiffs full of people arrived. Looks like we had good timing.
The coral heads just outside were almost as impressive as the caves. The colors and diversity were the best I’ve seen so far. I checked off multiple reef fish that I hadn’t seen yet including royal grammas, juvenile and adult yellowtail damselfish, a smooth trunkfish, a trumpet fish and a gorgeous pair of butterfly fish. They were joined by countless parrotfish of all life stages, blue chromis, snapper and so many more.
It’s so nice to see healthy coral reef
Eventually we returned to the skiff and headed back to catch the sunset. On the way, we ventured around the backside of the smaller of the two Rocky Dundas islands and noticed an osprey perched high on the rocks. We moved in closer for a better look and noticed a huge nest beside it and a single chick peeking out.
Ospreys mate for life and lay between two and four eggs a year. The female will usually tend the nest but is relieved by the male periodically to go hunting. She will typically migrate a few weeks before her mate and leave him to teach the chicks to fish. They tend to reuse nests like bald eagles and add to them each year. Talk about the icing on the cake for a killer day.
We headed back to the Altitude Adjustment for the sunset. The water flattened out dramatically and there was hardly a breath of wind. It was even calmer than our morning at Pumpkin Key, The water was like a mirror reaching out into the horizon.
I hope I see another one tomorrow -Captain Jim
Jan 15, 2024
Today is our last day inside the Exumas Land and Sea Park. We spent the night on a mooring ball just south of Little Halls Pond Cay, an island owned by Johnny Depp. There is a rather popular dive site there that is nicknamed “the aquarium”. There is also a small sunken airplane in the same area that we’d like to check out.
We unhooked from the mooring ball and cruised north to get closer to the site before skiffing over. There is a sign and a single skiff mooring located along a tiny rock outcrop marking the aquarium. Unfortunately there was a group of people already tied off, but they left as we arrived and we were able to snag their spot.
The second we hit the water the fish surrounded us! A horde of sergeant majors gathered directly under the skiff joined by dozens of snapper and grunts. The water is fairly deep compared to the snorkeling we have been doing but it was crystal clear. The walls below the exposed iron shore were steep and covered in beautiful coral. It was even better than yesterday, Jules and I dove down repeatedly to get a closer look. The early morning sun made the colors pop beautifully.
Sergeant majors bullying a school of bar jacks
Suddenly a skiff full of people joined us in the water and I had to avoid running into anyone. We all gathered around a green sea turtle that showed up, taking turns diving down to get videos and say hello. Eventually the current started picking up along the sides of the small island so, after battling our way back to the skiff, we called it good.
My dad drove us over to the sunken airplane and Jules, my mom, and I rolled out of the boat to look. To be honest it wasn’t anything special. Just a small crashed plane slowly being eaten away by the saltwater. The coral heads surrounding it were much more interesting if you ask me. There were a couple of large, pretty sponges growing inside the plane and I spotted a long-spine porcupinefish hovering at the edge of the reef, but the aquarium far surpassed the small plane.
Losing the battle against saltwater
Once we were satisfied we loaded up, went back to the Altitude Adjustment, and departed for Sampson Cay. I’m sad to say goodbye to the park but we have been out of fish for far too long. Sadly the winds are strong this morning and the ocean is predicted to be very rough. Traveling along the bank should have made it a much smoother trip, however the waves are surprisingly big. Luckily, our trip was short and the swells rocked Jules to sleep rather than to death.
My dad picked an anchorage that he hoped would be semi-private, but upon arriving we had to fight for a spot. Many of the boats are much larger than we are so we weaved through them and tucked into the very back of the cove. The spot is great protection from everything but west waves and wind, and for the most part we are surrounded by jagged iron shore.
This anchorage was originally built up to be a marina, but in the early 2000’s it was purchased by a very wealthy man. He shut down the operation and made the island private for his friends and family. There are signs everywhere warning us to keep off, but we can anchor right beside it and they can’t kick us out.
Still haven’t see a green flash
Jan 16, 2024
We haven’t stopped anywhere to provision since Bimini and are running seriously low on vegetables. This also means that we haven’t been able to dump any trash. We have done well to reuse, consolidate, and minimize our waste but with four people on board it’s inevitable. There are two overflowing bags sitting out that need to go. There is the beginning of a fly infestation happening and I’m sure the trash isn’t helping.
From our anchorage we can skiff to Staniel Cay and run our errands. I helped my dad lower the skiff and replace the snorkeling gear with trash and grocery bags before we headed out. My parents spent a couple of weeks in this area so they know their way around well. By taking a shortcut through the empty marina we avoided any big open water and stayed fairly dry for once.
Like taking back roads to avoid a busy highway
The water along the way was gorgeous too. The varying depths and contours on the bottom produce a wide array of blues. Around the halfway point we turned into an anchorage at Big Major Cay to see if it was full. Surprisingly there was a ton of room, my mom said last time they were here it was a struggle to find somewhere to squeeze in. The huge area can probably accommodate over one hundred boats.
After concluding our investigation we continued to Staniel Cay. The town is basically a cleaner, nicer version of Bimini. Some of the houses are in rough shape but there is far less trash scattered around. It’s really nice to see the locals taking some pride in their community.
Cute beach houses of Staniel Cay
On Staniel Cay there are two and a half grocery stores, and typically you have to go to all of them to complete your list. The two main ones are ‘the pink’ and ‘the blue’ stores. Supposedly the owner of the pink store is mother to the owner of the blue store. They are very close together and nothing on the shelves is priced. I’m thinking the locals might get a better deal on things than boaters passing through.
We asked when they expected the supply boat and received a different answer from each store we stopped at. I’m not sure if they were messing with us or not. Just like in Bimini, I recommend checking the expiration on anything you plan to purchase as the supply boat only comes once a week.
The third option for supplies is a combination of a hardware and grocery store. In one aisle there are ropes and anchors and in the next there are vegetables and canned goods. The nice part about the hardware/grocery store is that we can tie the skiff to their dock, walk in and buy groceries, and then head back to the boat without lugging the groceries all around the town.
Skiff parking at the grocery/hardware store
After stopping at the pink and blue stores we decided to get lunch at the yacht club. Fair warning: the prices are high and the portions are small. We were able to sit outside and have a great view over the water though. The patio is situated in the middle of the marina and multiple sharks swam circles under the dock.
My parents say when the boats come in and butcher their fish there are dozens of them. There is a small staircase leading down into the water and apparently the sharks will line up with their heads on the steps and wait for scraps. At the same time people will be in the water petting them. Sounds like a great way to lose a finger if you ask me.
Losing a thumb war over an actual thumb
We also stopped at an adventure store/fish market on the island and were temporarily transported back to the U.S. The building was new and manicured for tourists, which felt very out of place here. The good news is that they had fresh grouper for sale and the price was surprisingly reasonable.
They charged us eighteen dollars a pound, but wanted double that for wahoo. In the states that’s usually the opposite. Apparently the demand is the opposite down here. The guy inside did say he ranks grouper lower than wahoo and closer to tuna. Personally I think the tuna trumps them both, but it’s just preference and all three can be fantastic.
My dad also took our time on land to source a new charcoal filter for our desalinator. Staniel Cay yacht club is actually owned by the company Watermakers Inc. so finding the part was easier than you would think. I wouldn’t expect anywhere else down here to have one in stock.
Waiting for parts in paradise
After running our errands we returned to the Altitude Adjustment only to find it completely socked in by smoke. The private island we are anchored near is doing some construction and burning large quantities of cleared vegetation. Yesterday we arrived after they had finished work for the day and were unaware of the fire. Today, the wind slacked and allowed the smoke to envelop the entire anchorage.
In an attempt to relax we floated off the back deck to cool off, but the thick smoke and rolling waves gave quite the opposite effect for me. After bouncing around for a few minutes and making a mess of the ropes that secure us to the boat I was over it. We did have a nurse shark and a turtle keeping us company for a few minutes at least.
That’s a big sea puppy
While shopping, Captain Chris of Brown Eyed Girl anchored beside us. We invited him over for happy hour and he didn’t show up empty handed. He brought homemade bread, killer salami, and enough butter to clog an artery or two. It was fantastic. His brioche bread baked with thyme and lathered in butter was the perfect snack to absorb some of the alcohol we were putting down. He stuck around for the sunset and we all traded cruising stories from the trip. It was nice to have company for a change.
I think the lack of socialization and space is making us a little stir-crazy. I’ve affectionately nicknamed my parents the Bickersons. My dad being out of cigarettes has him wearing on my mom’s nerves and it’s only a matter of time before the levee breaks.
Jan 17, 2024
Last night I became an all-you-can-eat buffet for the noseeums. They’re small enough to infiltrate the window screens and apparently I’m a beacon. They bite Jules too but she doesn’t have nearly the reaction that I do. I repeatedly awoke to a stinging sensation, but the bugs are difficult to see during the day, much less in the dark. Once they settled in there was no escape until the morning.
I awoke looking like I contracted chicken pox. Needless to say, I was unhappy. Jules and I went outside on the bow hoping for a breeze to stave off their advances, but there was hardly a breath. Usually we strive to find calm weather but this morning I was wishing for wind. With no available escape options on the boat, I donned my half-dry bathing suit from yesterday and got in the water. Sure it was cold, but anything is better than those biting midges.
While Chris was over yesterday he asked if I would check some things under his boat. Having gotten in the water early, Jules and I swam over in our snorkel gear to see what we could do. He was concerned that one of the through-holes on his boat may be clogged with mussels. These are holes in the bottom of the boat that go through to the water, hence the name, and no they don’t allow water in. He handed me a screwdriver, and after taking a few big breaths, I went to investigate.
The sunrise over Brown-Eyed Girl
The hole in question didn’t seem clogged, but other ones definitely had some aquatic hitch-hikers built up. I gently chipped them away and cleared the holes. Next, he asked me to check out his drive shaft to see if it was rattling around. Now normally I avoid checking out other guys’ shafts, but Chris is a nice guy and brought good bread so I made an exception. After inspecting the bearings I informed him of a slight jiggle on his left rudder, but nothing that seemed urgent. I’m not certain that the info I provided was helpful, but hopefully he’s got an idea of what to do next.
By the time we got back to our boat the workers had arrived on the island and would no doubt be starting a fire again. Chris pulled up his anchor and we followed in suit, no way are we going to breathe that smoke all day. The calm morning prompted us to try our luck fishing again. We made our way offshore and the lines went in. Unfortunately, all we ended up with was a long boat ride.
If you caught fish all the time they would have named it “catching”
We had one fish hit our lures and as soon as I began reeling, it was off. My dad did some research in hopes of finding some new techniques and discovered that we have the right baits, spot and time of year. Apparently it just wasn’t our day. Luckily we have grouper for dinner to hold us over until we catch something.
Disappointed in our luck we decided to head back in and anchor near the yacht club. We are currently waiting on the supply boat to arrive at Staniel Cay so we can finish provisioning before moving on. After asking around, it seems like our guess is as good as theirs. I think the locals have made their peace with the lack of consistency but it would be nice to know the schedule. From where we anchored we should at least be able to see it arrive.
We ended up anchoring next to Thunderball Grotto. It is a similar swim-through cave as the Rocky Dundas but with a more renowned reputation. In 1965, the James Bond film crew traveled to Staniel Cay to film for the movie Thunderball. Sean Connery heroically thwarts the villain’s evil plans in an epic underwater fight scene. There is even a picture of the cast on the wall at the Staniel Cay Yacht Club.
Talk about a sweet movie set!
We loaded up in the skiff and went to check it out. The current surrounding the entrance was one of the strongest I’ve witnessed so far. My dad decided to stay in the boat in case we couldn’t make the swim back. The rest of us geared up and braved the conditions. Entering the cave was fairly painless as the current rapidly swept us in.
The stalactites and stalagmites were far less dramatic inside, but we were joined by dozens of fish to make up for it. There was a small eddy on one side of the pool that we used to escape the current and look around. I think some of the magic was lost having already visited the Rocky Dundas, but I still fully recommend checking it out.
Feeling cooler than James Bond
Upon trying to leave we realized that we would have to work to get out. There is a rope inside to help pull yourself toward the entrance but it doesn’t run all the way out. The three of us formed a line on the rope and got as close to the entrance as possible. Interested to see how strong it was, the girls sent me through first. Now I’m a pretty strong swimmer and had fins on to help, but it took about all I had to clear the overhang and escape.
Having witnessed my struggle, my mom and Jules reassessed the situation. They scrambled to the end of the rope and then found a way to pull themselves out using the rocks as hand-holds. I think both of them would agree that the situation flew by stressful and escalated straight to scary. My dad saw us coming out and quickly drove to snatch us before the current swept us away. I am fortunate to say that no injuries were had.
Our final activity for the day was to go see the swimming pigs at Big Major Cay. Unlike Thunderball Grotto, I don’t fully recommend it. The pigs operate under the assumption that everyone who arrives has food due to tour boats taking customers over to feed them. They see you coming and swim out to meet you in hopes of an easy snack.
Apparently there’s knock-offs somewhere
It may sound cute and innocent, but some of the pigs are 600 lb monsters. There are even signs on the beach warning people to remain in their boats while visiting. We made a couple of circles and Jules and I scratched one’s wiry back as it swam by, but trust me, snorkeling and fishing are much more entertaining than seeing pig bay at Big Major Cay.
Looks like a lot of bacon to me
Finally we returned home and prepared fish. My dad seasoned and grilled the grouper with some blackening and Española red chili powder while my mom constructed a coconut curry with veggies and saffron rice. We definitely eat well out here.
Jan 18, 2024
Every once in a while we all need a lazy day. We used the morning to go ahead and make some phone calls. I needed to change the address on file with my health insurance, which is much easier said than done. Jules has been receiving some mixed messages from her health insurance regarding the billing for a previous visit; as usual the communication has been inconsistent. My parents have been playing phone tag with their propane company trying to confirm the gas level at their house in Arboles. Thankfully I think all of it got straightened out.
Waiting on hold never looked so good
While we all worked on our chores, the supply boat finally arrived. It parked at the big government dock and the ship-mounted crane began unloading. The key here is to be patient. Just because the ship arrives doesn’t mean the stores are stocked up. It takes some time to get it picked up from the dock, distributed to the correct stores, and placed on the shelf for sale. In Bimini, it’s good practice to wait until the morning after the ship arrives to go shopping. Remember, down here everyone runs on island time so it helps to not be in a hurry.
After eating lunch and allowing ample time for the supplies to be divvied up, my parents and I made our way over to shop. The grocery and hardware general store is the most convenient because of its skiff dock so we started there. Upon entering it seemed like nothing had changed from our previous visit, because it hadn’t. According to the man inside, the supply ship that arrived wasn’t for them.
Brace yourself for the tida wave
Originally the woman running the place told us it would arrive the day before, but now this guy says it will be here tomorrow. Who knows if there’s even a ship coming for them at all? He was nice enough to inform us that today’s ship was for the pink and blue stores. We hopped back in the skiff and drove around to check out the other stores.
My mom and I walked up the street to go shop while my dad stayed behind to watch the skiff. First we stopped at the Pink Pearl and the deliveries were being unpacked. Score! She and I snagged some fresh romaine for salads, some avocados, a couple of bell peppers, and more onions. The two bags we had weren’t very full and the total was over fifty dollars. With no prices labeled it’s always a gamble on the items, you won’t know the cost until after you’ve paid and gotten a receipt. I’m sure they do it on purpose. We bought six avocados and they were four dollars a piece, ouch!
Princess Aurora mural on Staniels Cay
She and I then tried to go to the blue store but they were closed for some reason. Upon returning to the skiff things went south. The engine refused to start, and while we were shopping my dad snuck away and bought some cigarettes. Both my mom and I were instantly upset. He had been doing well, but it’s called addiction for a reason. My mom berated him on the beach while he struggled to get the motor started and I also voiced my disappointment.
We rode back to the boat and I did my best to avoid him. Naturally that’s impossible on a boat, but what can I say, I was agitated. My emotions often get the best of me in these situations, but I wear my heart on my sleeve. Dramatic is putting it lightly, but after some time had passed we both apologized. The ocean isn’t always the only thing that’s turbulent on this boat, but we always work it out. He made surf-and-turf for dinner. Lobster tails on top of elk steak smothered in bearnaise sauce, it’s hard to stay upset after that.